Stockings in Paris 1777: A Story of Luxury, Power, and Hardship

In 1777, Paris was a city of stark contradictions. On one side, the aristocratic elite indulged in extravagant fashions and opulent lifestyles, epitomized by Queen Marie Antoinette and her lavish court at Versailles. On the other, the majority of Paris’ population endured harsh living conditions, struggling with rising food prices and economic instability. These social disparities were vividly reflected in something as seemingly simple as hosiery.

For the aristocracy, silk stockings were an essential fashion statement—a symbol of wealth, status, and control over women's bodies. Meanwhile, for the vast majority of Paris' population, such luxuries were unattainable. Stockings were more than just clothing—they embodied the wider societal tensions between privilege and hardship, beauty and oppression, indulgence and survival.

Silk Stockings in 1777: A Symbol of Aristocratic Luxury

At the height of her influence, Queen Marie Antoinette became the ultimate trendsetter in the world of Parisian fashion. Silk stockings, intricately embroidered and often adorned with decorative patterns, became a crucial part of the aristocratic wardrobe. They were often paired with shorter skirts and high heels, drawing attention to the wearer’s delicate, carefully curated appearance. Women of the court invested heavily in the finest silk stockings, which were imported from regions like Lyon and adorned with elegant motifs.

These stockings, however, were far more than just an accessory. They reinforced a social hierarchy that was literally woven into the fabric of daily life. Wearing luxurious stockings emphasized a woman’s wealth and refinement, but also her submission to rigid ideals of femininity—graceful, fragile, and ornamental. The delicate material, typically silk, highlighted the perceived frailty of women, a stark contrast to the often hidden strength required to navigate the complex world of court politics.

Feminism and Fashion: Silent Resistance

Though stockings at this time reflected societal expectations for women, they also allowed for subtle acts of resistance. In a world where women’s roles were often limited to serving as symbols of beauty and grace, fashion became a rare outlet for individuality. The intricate embroidery and personalized designs on stockings were ways for aristocratic women to express themselves, even if confined by the strict norms of decorum.

This silent form of rebellion was important within the framework of early feminist thought. While outspoken calls for women’s rights wouldn’t fully emerge in France until after the Revolution, these small acts of self-expression through fashion were a way for women to push back against the limitations imposed on them.

The Contradiction: Hardship for the Average Parisian

While the aristocracy luxuriated in silk stockings and extravagant gowns, the majority of Paris’ population struggled to make ends meet. The late 18th century was a time of growing economic disparity. By 1777, the burden of taxes, poor harvests, and rising bread prices weighed heavily on the working class. These hardships would eventually fuel the discontent that led to the French Revolution in 1789.

For the average Parisian, silk stockings were a luxury far beyond reach. Women in the lower classes often wore more functional wool or linen stockings—if they could afford stockings at all. These stockings were durable but lacked the elegance of their silk counterparts, reflecting the daily hardships of the working class. Where aristocratic women showcased their wealth and femininity through fine clothing, lower-class women faced the stark reality of survival, with little room for indulgence.

In this context, silk stockings represented more than just fashion—they were a symbol of the deep social divides in pre-Revolutionary France. While the aristocracy flaunted their wealth through opulent attire, the majority of the population faced food shortages, poor working conditions, and rising discontent. The luxurious stockings worn at court became a visible reminder of the excesses of the elite and the injustices of the class system.

Contrasts in Feminine Identity: Fragility vs. Resilience

The contrast between the aristocracy and the working class extended beyond material wealth. It also shaped the concept of femininity. Aristocratic women were expected to embody a delicate, ethereal beauty, adorned with fragile silk stockings that emphasized their role as ornaments in a world ruled by men. The stockings themselves were fragile, requiring careful handling to avoid runs or tears, symbolizing the careful control and restriction placed on women in high society.

In contrast, the women of the lower classes, who were often laborers, market vendors, or mothers tending to large families, embodied a form of resilience that went largely unacknowledged. Their wool or linen stockings may not have been as elegant, but they symbolized the strength required to endure the harsh realities of life in 18th-century Paris. While the aristocracy cultivated an ideal of passive, ornamental femininity, the women of the working class quietly embodied the strength, resilience, and perseverance necessary for survival.

Stockings and Feminism: Then and Now

Looking back on the history of stockings in 1777 Paris, we can see how this seemingly simple garment carried deep cultural and societal significance. Stockings became a reflection of the divide between the aristocracy and the average person, but they also allowed women, particularly in the upper classes, a rare form of personal expression and identity.

In the context of contemporary feminism, the history of stockings serves as a reminder of how fashion and clothing have long been tools of both control and liberation. The same stockings that reinforced delicate femininity and social class divisions in 1777 are now being torn apart and reassembled in my artwork—no longer symbols of restriction, but of empowerment and creative expression.

Reclaiming Hosiery Through Art

In my recent exhibition, Sheer Joy, I use pantyhose as a medium to explore and reclaim ideas about femininity, beauty, and societal expectations. By tearing apart and reconstructing these delicate fabrics, I am creating something new—an artistic statement that challenges the conventional roles women have historically been assigned. Much like the women of 1777 Paris, who subtly pushed back against societal constraints through their stockings, I aim to redefine what these materials represent today. They are no longer fragile symbols of wealth and control, but resilient forms of art and expression.

As I reflect on the contradictory nature of hosiery in 18th-century Paris—luxurious for the aristocracy, unattainable for the working class—I am reminded of how important it is to continue challenging the narratives surrounding beauty, femininity, and privilege. Through art, we can create a new conversation, one that honors resilience over fragility and reclaims control over the symbols that once confined us.